Protect Your Pets: Learn this List of Toxics

1. Snail baits with metaldehyde 
2. Rodent poisons with anticoagulants (too many chemicals to list)
3. Insecticides with disulfoton (for roses)
4. Fly baits with methomyl
5. Cocoa bean shell mulch with methylxanthine
6. Citronella candles - who knew?
7. Avoid all fertilizers and weed killers
8. Avoid all swimming pool treatment supplies
9. Blue-green algae in ponds/lakes is highly toxic, did you know?
10. Compost piles: keep your pets out!

Review: “Pet First Aid & Disaster Response Guide” by PetsAmerica.org founder Elaine Acker

This week’s tip was inspired by Acker’s book (cover pictured at right). You already know that Sunbear Squad encourages animal lovers to be good Samaritans for companion animals, especially neighbors’ pets and lost or abandoned animals in your area. We want every animal lover to be prepared, equipped, and knowledgeable, so we like to recommend helpful resources like this book ($18.95). This is one you want in your first aid kit. But please read it first; you’ll be glad you did.
Click on the book cover to purchase the book.

The distributor introduces the book using this text:

The Pet First Aid & Disaster Response Guide is designed to help pet owners provide temporary, urgent care to pets until they can reach a veterinary or emergency clinic. The text will teach readers to care for their animals before, during, and after an emergency.

The Pet First Aid & Disaster Response Guide includes coverage of:

• Injury prevention and disaster preparation.
• Personal safety precautions to help pet owners identify and minimize risks.
• A wide array of pet emergencies including bleeding and bite wounds, cardiac arrest, choking, burns, poisoning, trauma, and more.

What the distributor doesn’t say about this book is perhaps it’s most helpful feature: design. This guide is thoughtfully designed to be used by ordinary non-medical people like me during an emergency, when you need information fast. It is full color, easy to read (larger than average type size, bold subheadings, instructional text positioned next to clear illustrations) and features printed color tabs allow the reader to navigate to a the preferred section quickly.

The author provides a wealth of information in checklists for easy comprehension and includes set-off tips, which presents some key concepts at a glance. The book is a very portable size and should easily fit into most first-aid kits.

Excellent illustrations give confidence to the reader. The Normal Vital Signs section which inspired our tip above includes three helpful drawings to show three pulse points. I was immediately inspired to try all of them on Maddax who is sleeping beside me as I write this. The same information buried in text-heavy paragraphs would not have prepared me to try. Color illustrations are a significant investment and one that some publishers might have dismissed on cost alone.

Because Lives Depend on It: Making a disaster action plan for pets and people

The author conceptualized the reference in two sections; it’s like two books in one. The disaster planning guide (last quarter of the book) presents essential information in a digest format for easy reading, including checklists and sidebars. She provides three disaster kit lists for companion animals, horses, and people. And if you don’t believe disaster could happen in your neighborhood, check out her A-Z list of “What could possibly go wrong?” Did you miss making a New Year’s resolution in 2012? This is a good one.

PetsAmerica, the organization behind the book

While I can’t comment on the validity of content because I am not a professional in the veterinary field, I have confidence that the information presented is sound advice. The organization Pets America “collaborates closely with the Emergency Care and Safety Institute, Emergency Veterinary Hospitals, the International Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society, the Texas Veterinary Medical Association, and other partners to help teach pet owners to better care for their pets before, during, and after an emergency” according to their website. The back cover credits tell us that over 200 veterinary professionals had some role in bringing the book to the public and over 400 were surveyed for input. That’s good enough for me!

A final note: don’t buy this book or any similar reference in electronic format. While I like my Kindle just fine, I won’t assume that I’ll always have power for it during an emergency and neither should you.

Thank you Elaine Acker for masterminding and writing this book, and for founding the organization in the wake of Katrina. It looks like it was a massive project and a true labor of love. I can appreciate how it likely monopolized your life for some years. I’m glad to spread the word.

1.         Do your research first.

Check out the dog park before taking your dog for his or her first outing.  Whether it’s Fido’s first time at this particular park, or visiting a park away from home, it pays to know the “lay of the land” before the first outing, and see what amenities are available (drinking water? separate play areas for small and large dogs?).  Know what the rules of the park are – they will have signs posted, and often a website that goes over the rules in more detail.

2.         Complete basic training.

For your dog’s safety, and your sanity, be sure and at least have a grasp on the basic training commands – sit, stay, come – these are important basics that will give you control during an urgent situation, should one arise.

3.         Make sure your dog is physically ready.

Your pet should not venture to the park without being up-to-date on their immunizations and vaccinations; it would be also be a good idea to make sure they are treated with flea, tick, or wormer treatments to ensure that they do not spread any parasites at the park, and are protected from fleas or ticks that may be lurking there.  Also, do not bring a dog that is not spayed or neutered – an intact dog could very well spark a dogfight, and many dog parks prohibit bringing an intact animal to the park. Do not bring puppies under four months as the risk of disease to them is high (instead arrange play dates with dog pals that you know are disease-free and immunized, until your puppy is fully protected from disease).

4.         Don’t go when the park is overly-crowded.

Try to visit the dog park when it is less crowded, during off-times, if possible.  Crowds ramp up the energy level and could lead to tension and/or dogfights.  Especially if it is your dog’s first time – pick a quiet hour to visit.

5.         Know what a dogfight looks like.

Although playing sometimes looks like fighting, you should be mindful of play that is starting to get too aggressive or when your dog’s patience is wearing thin.  Know the signs of a dogfight brewing:

• A hard, unwavering, targeted stare.
• Dominance posturing, such as mounting.
• Stiff body movements.
• Extreme body language: the tail held stiffly up or down, lips pulled tight against the teeth.

6.         Keep a vigilant eye on your dog.

Often you will see humans gather in conversation groups while their dogs play without any supervision.  This is a dogfight waiting to happen.  Keep in mind you are at the dog park to enrich your dog’s social life, not your own.  It is imperative you keep a watchful eye on your dog for any problems that may arise.  If at all possible, only take one dog with you at a time, so that you can devote your full attention to your pet, and be sure to turn your mobile phone off, to avoid being distracted.

7.         Know how to break up a fight.

Even friendly, social dogs can end up in a spat with another dog for a variety of reasons.  Know what to do (creating a loud noise, squirting with water) and what not do (putting your hand near their heads to separate them).  Some dog owners bring spray bottles with them to the park, or loud whistles to aid them in an emergency.

8.         Leave kids at home.

Please leave small children at home since you cannot be sure that all dogs at the dog park are kid-friendly and safe; also, you cannot give your dog your full attention if you are also looking after small children.

9.         Outfit your dog properly.

Leave the chain collar at home, if you use one.  It can be a choking hazard.  Also, if you utilize a harness, be sure it is fitted properly and does not chafe when your dog is running – since he is there to play and run!  Also, although many parks include “doggie drinking fountains,” consider bringing your own portable bowl and water, as these fountains are often ground zero for passing on communicable diseases between canines.

10.       Be realistic.

Not all dogs enjoy the dog park – some are fearful, some enjoy only playing with a select few friends, etc.  If your dog exhibits signs that he or she is not enjoying themselves, cheerfully take your dog home, or for a walk outside of the park.  Again, it should be about your dog’s enjoyment and not your own.  Don’t find fault, and if your dog appears to have a behavioral condition that precludes his enjoyment of dog park play, consult a behaviorist and see what kind of help can be given, to help enrich their lives.

Important additional reading:

Give Paw Dog Training Discusses Dog Park Safety: Dog Fight Prevention and Beyond

APDT – Dog Park Tips

Dog Parks: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Here we go again… Diamond is involved in another recall.

Here is the report I just got from the FDA:

Individuals handling dry pet food can become infected with salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after having contact with surfaces exposed to this product. Healthy people infected with salmonella should monitor themselves for some or all of the following symptoms: nausea, vomiting, diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, abdominal cramping and fever. Rarely, salmonella can result in more serious ailments including arterial infections, endocarditis, arthritis, muscle pain, eye irritation and urinary tract symptoms. Consumers exhibiting these signs after having contact with this product should contact their healthcare providers.

Pets with salmonella infections may have decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. If left untreated, pets may be lethargic and have diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Infected but otherwise healthy pets can be carriers and infect other animals or humans. If your pet has consumed the recalled product and has these symptoms, please contact your veterinarian.

The product, Diamond Naturals Lamb Meal & Rice, was distributed to customers located in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Maryland, Michigan, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, South Carolina and Virginia, who may have further distributed the product to other states, through pet food channels.

Product Name  Bag Size  Production Code & “Best Before” Code  Diamond Naturals Lamb & Rice   6lb  DLR0101D3XALW Best Before 04 Jan 2013  Diamond Naturals Lamb & Rice  20lb  DLR0101C31XAG Best Before 03 Jan 2013  Diamond Naturals Lamb & Rice  40lb  DLR0101C31XMF Best Before 03 Jan 2013  Diamond Naturals Lamb & Rice  40lb  DLR0101C31XAG Best Before 03 Jan 2013  Diamond Naturals Lamb & Rice  40lb  DLR0101D32XMS Best Before 04 Jan 2013

Consumers who have purchased the Diamond Naturals Lamb & Rice with the specific production and “Best Before” codes should discontinue feeding the product and discard it.

Signs of Stress.

First, understand the signs of canine stress.  Physiologically, the stress hormones released can cause an elevated heart-rate, dilated pupils, rapid breathing. A dog that is under stress or anxiety may have difficulty learning new behaviors (the stress hormones initiate a “fight or flight” reaction that overtakes them and does not allow for new behaviors to be learned) and may also exhibit behavioral issues because of that stress – lapses in housetraining, reactivity on leash, overly-aggressive barking, snapping, growling, shyness, escaping, destructiveness, to name just a few. This can result in a newly-adopted or rescued dog failing in his or her new home and ending up at a pound, shelter, or on the street again. To avoid this scenario in your home, be proactive about relieving your newly rescued dog’s stress. First, have your new dog examined by a vet to ensure that they are in good health, with no illnesses or injuries.  If they are found to be in good health, but exhibiting “stressed out” behaviors, or even if they are not, you will want to engage in “de-stressing” your rescued dog. While there are numerous methods that can be utilized to de-stress your dog, some of the more currently popular methods are listed here, with more detailed information in the links at the end.

Stress Relieving Practices and Remedies.

1. Exercise. Even small dogs, and sometimes especially the smaller breeds (an energetic Jack Russell, for example) need daily exercise in the form of a walk, jog or energetic play that lasts for at least 30 minutes. Not only is a “tired dog a good dog,” dogs need the mental stimulus gained from getting outside for a walk. Exercise needs to be included in every dog’s regimen, but especially for a dog that has stress.
2. Routine. Dogs crave routine, and getting them on a solid routine as soon as possible will give them a sense of security and confidence. Bathroom breaks, meals, bedtimes, walks should all be on a regular schedule that they can count on.
3. Good Diet. As with people, dogs flourish with a healthy diet. Read labels and try to avoid fillers like corn, soy, and wheat gluten. Don’t beat yourself up if you can’t afford top of the line dog food products, but research and read about the ones in your budget and select the best that you can afford.
4. Dog Appeasing Pheromones. Some have had good results with DAP collars, or “Dog Appeasing Pheromones.” Some people report little luck. If your new dog is exhibiting destructive behaviors due to separation anxiety, it might be worth a try, and the pheromone can be purchased and applied via dog collar, room diffuser, or room spray.
5. Flower Essences/Holistic and Alternative Approaches. Rescue Remedy, and other similar flower essences have been marketed for some time as a “calming” treatment for humans, and have been found to work for animals too. There are also many holistic and “alternative” approaches to relieving stress in dogs, including Telling TTouch therapy, reiki, massage, acupressure and acupuncture that are gaining in popularity and acceptance.
6. Anti-anxiety Medications. Sometimes a dog’s anxiety levels does not respond to more traditional methods of relief, and at that point you should consider speaking to your vet about the possibilities of anti-anxiety medication, especially if your dog’s anxiety is causing aggressive, destructive, or self-harming behaviors. Many dog guardians are reporting good results with traditional medications such as Prozac (generic – fluoxetine) or Clomicalm (clomipramine). These medications must be administered with a prescription from your vet and under their care – do not attempt to administer these medications yourself, without consulting a vet.

Most importantly, patience is key.  Just because you have lovingly opened your home to a rescued dog does not mean he or she will immediately understand that they are safe, that they have security, that they will be taken care of.  There will be a certain amount of stress they will have just from being in a new home, and employing some or all of the above methods to keep them calm during the transition can help them get over that hurdle.

For more detailed information, please check out these resources:

Signs That Your Dog Has Stress – The Whole Dog Journal

How to Reduce Stress in Dogs – Adrienne Farricelli, certified dog trainer (CPDT-KA)

Trying to Ease Your Dog’s Stress – The Whole Dog Journal

Dog Stress Symptoms – VetInfo.com

Dog Food Ingredients to Avoid – TheDogFoodProject.com

“Dog-Appeasing Pheromone” to Calm an Anxious Dog – The Whole Dog Journal

Flower Essence Therapy for Dogs – The Whole Dog Journal

Managing Your Dog’s Stress – A Holistic Approach

Tellington TTouch Training

Behavioral Medications for Dogs – ASPCA

Are you looking for a great present for a new pet parent? Pick up a copy of Perfect Puppy in 7 Days: How to Start Your Puppy Off Right. Dr. Sophia Yin has written a book with lots of excellent advice for first time pet parents as well as those of us who have spent more time with puppies than we can remember.

Yin has done a top notch job of taking us through the pups' developmental stages and showing the best way to move them through their socialization to become the best possible companions. The directions are very thorough with many helpful pictures.

What I really appreciate about Perfect Puppy in 7 Days is Yin's attitude towards puppies as individuals. These are not "one-size-fits-all" directions. Instead, Yin explains how dogs develop and learn. This info helps us to tailor the training for the behavior, not the age,

There is something for everyone to learn from Yin's book. Even the most experienced dog lover can pick up tips but Perfect Puppy in 7 Days should be in every puppy starter kit.

Consider adopting a cat who has lived with other cats to minimize the amount of adjustment time and effort needed.

1. Create a private room for the new resident.

• Provide the shelter or current owner with two items of bedding (small blankets, towels, t-shirts) a day or two in advance of pickup, with a request that the bedding be placed in your new cat’s sleeping space as bedding. When you pick up your cat, pick up the  bedding too. Put the bedding in your cat’s travel crate.
• Purchase and feed (until the adjustment period ends) the same food your cat is accustomed to eating.
• Outfit the private room with a clean kitty litter box, a soft cat bed on top of a bed or chair, food and water dishes and toys. Put one item of bedding on the cat bed to provide a familiar scent.
• If your private room has been off-limits to your resident cats, bring their scent into the room. Leave a piece of bedding in your home for a few days where your resident cats like to sleep, so that the bedding can pick up their scents. Put the cat bedding on the floor on top of a vinyl boot tray on the floor of the private room. If your new cat urinates on it, remove it, but if not plan to leave it there for the duration of the introduction period.

2. Introduce your resident cats to the new cat’s scent.

• If possible, enclose your resident cats into a safe part of  your home for a few hours so the adjustment period begins with a period of quiet.
• Put the second item of bedding with your resident cats, on top of a vinyl boot tray on the floor, away from the litter box and the water dish. If one of them urinates on the bedding, remove it, but otherwise leave it in place for a few weeks.

3. Introduce your new cat to the private room while your resident cats are enclosed.

Then, with the private room door closed, open the travel crate and let out your new cat. Your cat might explore confidently or might hide under the nearest piece of furniture. That’s fine. Talk soothingly and pet your cat if you can.

• Put your cat in the litter box and on the soft bed if you can.
• Put out food and water as near the crack of the entry door as is practical.
• Leave the room and visit every hour or so to give affection and reassurance, but try to leave when he or she is occupied, not interacting with you.
• Release your cat tribe and be prepared for them to discover the new cat smell. They might crouch near the private room door. Vocalization may commence.

4. Change the mood from mad to glad.

Calmly accept your resident cats’ objections and tantrums. Your new cat will likely vocalize as well. This is normal behavior; expect it. Start a program of mood modification and continue it for at least a week or until all of the cats appear to be interacting mildly, but keep your new cat in the private room.

• Feed your cats near the entrance to the private room, and do the same for your new cat, so they associate good things in the presence of the other cat.
• Put stick and string/ribbon-like toys under the private room door to encourage play. Your goal is to get your new cat and one or more of your resident cats playing with the same toy if possible.

5. Introduce your new cat to the home while your resident cats are enclosed.

Bring your resident cats into your bedroom at night and close the door (bring in the litter box). Then open up the door to the private room at night, so your new cat can explore safely. Continue this for a week or more.

6. Introduce your resident cats to the new cat, one at a time.

After all of the cats appear to be reacting to each other with markedly less intensity, bring one cat at a time into the private room for a supervised introduction, or bring your new cat into another room with one of your resident cats. Expect some occasional vocal objections.

• Provide plenty of treats and toys to distract them and change the mood.
• Keep a spray bottle full of water at arm’s length to break up a fight. If a fight erupts, go back to the previous steps for another week or two.

7. Open the door to the private room.

Let your cats tell you when they are comfortable. After a few (or many) weeks of supervised interactions, your cats might be ready to mingle freely. Signs of acceptance include eating or playing in the same room; sleeping or resting nearby; lack of jealousy when another cat is being petted.

Leave the private room open and outfitted for your new cat for another month or more, before gradually moving the litter box and feeding station to their permanent places. The transition to a new feeding spot might occur before the litter box or the opposite might also happen! Your goal is “no accidents” and gradual movements of the litter box might be more acceptable to your new cat. Put the litter box outside the door to the private room and close the door before gradually moving the litter box elsewhere.

A final thought.

Remember, your new cat needs careful introductions to your dogs but also to other pets that might be considered prey, including birds, rabbits, hamsters, guinea pigs, rats, snakes, etc. Do your research before you bring your new cat home.

Chip-in site to help him buy food for the animals he cares for

A web site to share news of his activities

YouTube video captured from a presentation he made in Japan about the needs of the animals in the mandatory exclusion zone where he lives

Huffington Post article (Aug. 2011)

• Preparation
• Patience
• Pack Management

Many humans require time and guidance to acclimate to new situations, learn new rules, understand each other’s ways of communicating, and to form bonds…why wouldn’t a new dog require the same kind of courtesies? (When deciding to bring a new dog into the family, proper introductions to a resident dog are a must – please read these tips and make sure your new addition will be compatible with your resident dog).

Preparation

Prepare your home ahead of time before the new dog arrives as much as possible.  At a minimum, figure out where the new family member is going to sleep; have a collar, ID tag, bed, bowl, crate (if crate-training), and leash ready.  Establish a “safe zone” for the new dog to stay in while acclimating – set your new dog up for success and don’t leave them to their own devices in room filled with expensive rugs, fragile furniture, or items dear to you, for instance.  Also, plan on keeping the new dog separated from your resident dog for some time, especially when you are not home to supervise, to enable them to acclimate to each other slowly, even if both dogs are “dog-friendly.”

Patience

Whether you’re adopting a puppy or a mature dog, patience is key to integrating your new pet into your household.  They will need to learn or re-learn housetraining, off-limits areas like couches or beds, and the unique routine of your household.  Your new dog will be learning about you and your family, and you will be learning about your new dog.  Establish a routine for your new dog right away, and do not put off their training.  Training and routine will help them bond to you and your household, build confidence in dogs that have come from unstable and unsettled backgrounds, and teach them what to expect from their new digs.  It is key to communication between human and canine.  Dogs adopted from shelters and with unknown backgrounds may have separation anxiety initially, or have picked up undesirable habits along their way, and will need your patience and guidance to learn good manners, feel secure, and become good canine citizens.

Pack Management

Management is crucial to integrating a new dog into the household.  Don’t listen to friends or family that say things such as, “just put them out in the backyard, and let them work out the relationship.”  This kind of approach can lead to dogfights, and tense relationships, and no one wants to have to give up their new pet because they failed to establish a successful relationship between their animals.  Always supervise play, feed separately, and do not leave toys and treats on the floor for dogs to compete over.  Once your new dog is settled in, and you have a better idea of the dynamic between your  dogs, you might be able to ease up on some of these rules, but for the most part, in a multi-dog household, it is much better to keep a lid on these situations that can lead to competition and fights.  For the first few weeks, plan on keeping the dogs separate when you are not home to supervise.  They will need time to establish a bond, and leaving strange dogs together can be invitation to trouble.

For more information, please check out these resources:

Humane Society of the United States – Integrating New Dog Tips

The Whole Dog Journal – Multi-dog Household Tips

The Whole Dog Journal – Multi-dog Training Tips

Adoptapet – 10 Tips for Welcoming a New Dog

Sharing this information with family, friends, and neighbors can make all the difference in the success of their new pet and creating a happy home for everyone involved.

Meet Sadie, the shelter cat with “Cattidude”

Sadie lives in our home now, but she had formerly lived in the no-kill shelter where I volunteer for well over a year. She was admitted as a stray cat and surprisingly, she was declawed. Normally a declawed cat is adopted quickly, but Sadie didn’t “show” well. She had “cattitude” with a capital C. She hated being picked up and would squall loudly. Her voice grated. If you tried to pet her she would scramble to escape. We thought she would be there forever. I recorded a video for her to show that she could actually be picked up:

Meet Sadie

So my crazy husband and I adopted her just to get her out of the shelter, half expecting her to be a sourpuss, cranky with our Tilly cat and our three dogs. Well, the joke was on us! When I opened the travel crate, she daintily stepped around the guest bedroom set up as her transition room and sniffed at the litter box, the water dish, her food. In about 20 seconds she turned back to me, looking me full in the face and she started to purr. With a determined stride, she walked up to me seated on the carpet and began to knead my thigh, purring loudly. I swear she was saying, “I love this place! Quiet! Windows! Carpet! THANK YOU!”

Sadie has been a saint with our other cat Tilly who was “Unhappy” about acquiring a sister. She sits quietly like a queen when our dogs come near. She loves attention and especially loves to sit next to my husband or me when we are working, reaching out one paw to touch us occasionally. We adore Sadie! WHO KNEW she was so sweet?

The shelter staff knew and they would tell interested families about Sadie’s wonderful qualities, saying she was “slow to warm up.” They said she “hated the shelter.” Exactly!

If you or someone you know is planning to visit a shelter or pound to adopt a dog or cat, think about ways to get the best information about the individual animals you might see.

• Work with a shelter facility that provides good customer service and will accept return of the animal if an unresolvable problem arises.
• Plan to spend hours and days, not minutes. Finding the dog or cat of your dreams is time-consuming. Remember, your pet will likely live for many years.
• Ask for guidance from staff or volunteers. Offer the one or two most important characteristics you are seeking, such as sociability, energy level, training, health. Remember that pets inside of a kennel might have learned a habit that can later be retrained, such as leaping on gates.
• Ignore color, size, sex, breed, hair length, and other physical characteristics unless you have a rational reason. If you can only lift 50 pounds or your landlord only allows dogs under 20 pounds or airlines only allow small dogs in the main cabin and you fly a lot–those are valid reasons. Avoiding black furry dogs because your carpet is beige? Come on–you shed too. Please adopt a plant instead. All dogs and cats are individuals. Personality (temperament) is what matters.
• Bring your family and your family dogs with you if you are looking at dogs. If your dog and the shelter dog are ignoring each other, that is actually a good sign. Don’t bring your family cats to look at cats; plan an introduction and transition period and set aside a private room.
• Plan for a “new pet” transition period that lasts for weeks, while your new cat or dog learns “house rules” and unlearns any shelter-acquired habits. Do not use physical punishment to train your pet; you will only create new aggressive or fearful behaviors! If you are experiencing difficulties, get advice or assistance from a behaviorist or trainer.

Rescues that are foster home-based are excellent places to look for dogs and cats, if they are reputable. It is very important to seek several references for rescues because there are hundreds of poorly-run or fraudulent rescue groups, including rescues that are just “fronts” for puppy mills. Because they don’t have a facility, you might find it difficult to identify bad rescues. Read my post about the signs of a reputable rescue.