Watch Tip: Lawn & Garden Chemicals

Posted on April 29th, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip LogoBeware of the deadly dangers of toxic lawn and garden chemicals. Don’t use them and prevent your pets from visiting neighbors who use them. Pesticides, insecticides and rodenticides can kill your pets, especially those that include sweeteners to attract their intended prey. If your neighbors complain about snails/slugs, mice/rats, flies and other pests, and they use toxic products to control them, keep your pets away!

Protect Your Pets: Learn this List of Toxics

  1. Snail baits with metaldehyde 
  2. Rodent poisons with anticoagulants (too many chemicals to list)
  3. Insecticides with disulfoton (for roses)
  4. Fly baits with methomyl
  5. Cocoa bean shell mulch with methylxanthine
  6. Citronella candles - who knew?
  7. Avoid all fertilizers and weed killers
  8. Avoid all swimming pool treatment supplies
  9. Blue-green algae in ponds/lakes is highly toxic, did you know?
  10. Compost piles: keep your pets out!
Remember: Your pets don’t wear clothing or shoes, so toxic products will get on fur and paw pads. The toxins will be ingested when your pets clean themselves.
Keep your pets safe and healthy this summer! Share this list with others; you may save a life.

Watch Tip: Learn Your Pets’ Vital Signs

Posted on April 22nd, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip LogoBe better prepared for emergencies involving your pets by learning how to take their normal (healthy) vital signs: pulse rate, respiratory rate, and temperature. You’ll want to know both the resting and active rates. Keep that information in your pet first aid kit, so you will recognize a problem earlier. Optionally, ask your vet to provide that information at your pet’s next exam.

Review: “Pet First Aid & Disaster Response Guide” by PetsAmerica.org founder Elaine Acker

This week’s tip was inspired by Acker’s book (cover pictured at right). You already know that Sunbear Squad encourages animal lovers to be good Samaritans for companion animals, especially neighbors’ pets and lost or abandoned animals in your area. We want every animal lover to be prepared, equipped, and knowledgeable, so we like to recommend helpful resources like this book ($18.95). This is one you want in your first aid kit. But please read it first; you’ll be glad you did.
Click on the book cover to purchase the book.

The distributor introduces the book using this text:

The Pet First Aid & Disaster Response Guide is designed to help pet owners provide temporary, urgent care to pets until they can reach a veterinary or emergency clinic. The text will teach readers to care for their animals before, during, and after an emergency.

The Pet First Aid & Disaster Response Guide includes coverage of:

  • Injury prevention and disaster preparation.
  • Personal safety precautions to help pet owners identify and minimize risks.
  • A wide array of pet emergencies including bleeding and bite wounds, cardiac arrest, choking, burns, poisoning, trauma, and more.

What the distributor doesn’t say about this book is perhaps it’s most helpful feature: design. This guide is thoughtfully designed to be used by ordinary non-medical people like me during an emergency, when you need information fast. It is full color, easy to read (larger than average type size, bold subheadings, instructional text positioned next to clear illustrations) and features printed color tabs allow the reader to navigate to a the preferred section quickly.

The author provides a wealth of information in checklists for easy comprehension and includes set-off tips, which presents some key concepts at a glance. The book is a very portable size and should easily fit into most first-aid kits.

Excellent illustrations give confidence to the reader. The Normal Vital Signs section which inspired our tip above includes three helpful drawings to show three pulse points. I was immediately inspired to try all of them on Maddax who is sleeping beside me as I write this. The same information buried in text-heavy paragraphs would not have prepared me to try. Color illustrations are a significant investment and one that some publishers might have dismissed on cost alone.

Because Lives Depend on It: Making a disaster action plan for pets and people

The author conceptualized the reference in two sections; it’s like two books in one. The disaster planning guide (last quarter of the book) presents essential information in a digest format for easy reading, including checklists and sidebars. She provides three disaster kit lists for companion animals, horses, and people. And if you don’t believe disaster could happen in your neighborhood, check out her A-Z list of “What could possibly go wrong?” Did you miss making a New Year’s resolution in 2012? This is a good one.

PetsAmerica, the organization behind the book

While I can’t comment on the validity of content because I am not a professional in the veterinary field, I have confidence that the information presented is sound advice. The organization Pets America “collaborates closely with the Emergency Care and Safety Institute, Emergency Veterinary Hospitals, the International Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care Society, the Texas Veterinary Medical Association, and other partners to help teach pet owners to better care for their pets before, during, and after an emergency” according to their website. The back cover credits tell us that over 200 veterinary professionals had some role in bringing the book to the public and over 400 were surveyed for input. That’s good enough for me!

A final note: don’t buy this book or any similar reference in electronic format. While I like my Kindle just fine, I won’t assume that I’ll always have power for it during an emergency and neither should you.

Thank you Elaine Acker for masterminding and writing this book, and for founding the organization in the wake of Katrina. It looks like it was a massive project and a true labor of love. I can appreciate how it likely monopolized your life for some years. I’m glad to spread the word.

Watch Tip: Dog Park Tips & Warnings

Posted on April 16th, 2012 by Trish Roman-Aquilino

Watch Tip LogoDog parks have become extremely popular with dog owners for a variety of different reasons, including exercise, opportunities for socializing dogs, and just plain canine fun.  But there are problems to consider, and precautions to be taken, so that “fun” trip to the dog park doesn’t turn into a tragedy.   Following are ten tips and warnings to take heed of, and to distribute to any dog parents you may know!

1.         Do your research first.

Check out the dog park before taking your dog for his or her first outing.  Whether it’s Fido’s first time at this particular park, or visiting a park away from home, it pays to know the “lay of the land” before the first outing, and see what amenities are available (drinking water? separate play areas for small and large dogs?).  Know what the rules of the park are – they will have signs posted, and often a website that goes over the rules in more detail.

2.         Complete basic training.

For your dog’s safety, and your sanity, be sure and at least have a grasp on the basic training commands – sit, stay, come – these are important basics that will give you control during an urgent situation, should one arise.

3.         Make sure your dog is physically ready.

Your pet should not venture to the park without being up-to-date on their immunizations and vaccinations; it would be also be a good idea to make sure they are treated with flea, tick, or wormer treatments to ensure that they do not spread any parasites at the park, and are protected from fleas or ticks that may be lurking there.  Also, do not bring a dog that is not spayed or neutered – an intact dog could very well spark a dogfight, and many dog parks prohibit bringing an intact animal to the park. Do not bring puppies under four months as the risk of disease to them is high (instead arrange play dates with dog pals that you know are disease-free and immunized, until your puppy is fully protected from disease).

4.         Don’t go when the park is overly-crowded.

Try to visit the dog park when it is less crowded, during off-times, if possible.  Crowds ramp up the energy level and could lead to tension and/or dogfights.  Especially if it is your dog’s first time – pick a quiet hour to visit.

5.         Know what a dogfight looks like.

Although playing sometimes looks like fighting, you should be mindful of play that is starting to get too aggressive or when your dog’s patience is wearing thin.  Know the signs of a dogfight brewing:

  • A hard, unwavering, targeted stare.
  • Dominance posturing, such as mounting.
  • Stiff body movements.
  • Extreme body language: the tail held stiffly up or down, lips pulled tight against the teeth.

6.         Keep a vigilant eye on your dog.

Often you will see humans gather in conversation groups while their dogs play without any supervision.  This is a dogfight waiting to happen.  Keep in mind you are at the dog park to enrich your dog’s social life, not your own.  It is imperative you keep a watchful eye on your dog for any problems that may arise.  If at all possible, only take one dog with you at a time, so that you can devote your full attention to your pet, and be sure to turn your mobile phone off, to avoid being distracted.

7.         Know how to break up a fight.

Even friendly, social dogs can end up in a spat with another dog for a variety of reasons.  Know what to do (creating a loud noise, squirting with water) and what not do (putting your hand near their heads to separate them).  Some dog owners bring spray bottles with them to the park, or loud whistles to aid them in an emergency.

8.         Leave kids at home.

Please leave small children at home since you cannot be sure that all dogs at the dog park are kid-friendly and safe; also, you cannot give your dog your full attention if you are also looking after small children.

9.         Outfit your dog properly.

Leave the chain collar at home, if you use one.  It can be a choking hazard.  Also, if you utilize a harness, be sure it is fitted properly and does not chafe when your dog is running – since he is there to play and run!  Also, although many parks include “doggie drinking fountains,” consider bringing your own portable bowl and water, as these fountains are often ground zero for passing on communicable diseases between canines.

10.       Be realistic.

Not all dogs enjoy the dog park – some are fearful, some enjoy only playing with a select few friends, etc.  If your dog exhibits signs that he or she is not enjoying themselves, cheerfully take your dog home, or for a walk outside of the park.  Again, it should be about your dog’s enjoyment and not your own.  Don’t find fault, and if your dog appears to have a behavioral condition that precludes his enjoyment of dog park play, consult a behaviorist and see what kind of help can be given, to help enrich their lives.

Important additional reading:

Give Paw Dog Training Discusses Dog Park Safety: Dog Fight Prevention and Beyond

APDT – Dog Park Tips

Dog Parks: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Watch Tip: New Cat Introductions

Posted on March 18th, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip LogoIf you adopt an adult cat and you already have adult cats living in your home, manage the introduction process carefully to avoid fighting and eventually achieve harmony. Remember that cats are territorial animals and most will reject newcomer cats with extreme drama and noise. Follow these steps when introducing an adult, tame adoptive house cat to your home cat tribe. Your goal is “100% safe acceptance,” no clumps of fur found anywhere, no wounds of any kind, no emergency trips to the vet! If your cats actually become friends who sleep side by side, consider yourself lucky; it doesn’t happen often.

Consider adopting a cat who has lived with other cats to minimize the amount of adjustment time and effort needed.

1. Create a private room for the new resident.

  • Provide the shelter or current owner with two items of bedding (small blankets, towels, t-shirts) a day or two in advance of pickup, with a request that the bedding be placed in your new cat’s sleeping space as bedding. When you pick up your cat, pick up the  bedding too. Put the bedding in your cat’s travel crate.
  • Purchase and feed (until the adjustment period ends) the same food your cat is accustomed to eating.
  • Outfit the private room with a clean kitty litter box, a soft cat bed on top of a bed or chair, food and water dishes and toys. Put one item of bedding on the cat bed to provide a familiar scent.
  • If your private room has been off-limits to your resident cats, bring their scent into the room. Leave a piece of bedding in your home for a few days where your resident cats like to sleep, so that the bedding can pick up their scents. Put the cat bedding on the floor on top of a vinyl boot tray on the floor of the private room. If your new cat urinates on it, remove it, but if not plan to leave it there for the duration of the introduction period.

2. Introduce your resident cats to the new cat’s scent.

  • If possible, enclose your resident cats into a safe part of  your home for a few hours so the adjustment period begins with a period of quiet.
  • Put the second item of bedding with your resident cats, on top of a vinyl boot tray on the floor, away from the litter box and the water dish. If one of them urinates on the bedding, remove it, but otherwise leave it in place for a few weeks.

3. Introduce your new cat to the private room while your resident cats are enclosed.

Then, with the private room door closed, open the travel crate and let out your new cat. Your cat might explore confidently or might hide under the nearest piece of furniture. That’s fine. Talk soothingly and pet your cat if you can.

  • Put your cat in the litter box and on the soft bed if you can.
  • Put out food and water as near the crack of the entry door as is practical.
  • Leave the room and visit every hour or so to give affection and reassurance, but try to leave when he or she is occupied, not interacting with you.
  • Release your cat tribe and be prepared for them to discover the new cat smell. They might crouch near the private room door. Vocalization may commence.

4. Change the mood from mad to glad.

Calmly accept your resident cats’ objections and tantrums. Your new cat will likely vocalize as well. This is normal behavior; expect it. Start a program of mood modification and continue it for at least a week or until all of the cats appear to be interacting mildly, but keep your new cat in the private room.

  • Feed your cats near the entrance to the private room, and do the same for your new cat, so they associate good things in the presence of the other cat.
  • Put stick and string/ribbon-like toys under the private room door to encourage play. Your goal is to get your new cat and one or more of your resident cats playing with the same toy if possible.

5. Introduce your new cat to the home while your resident cats are enclosed.

Bring your resident cats into your bedroom at night and close the door (bring in the litter box). Then open up the door to the private room at night, so your new cat can explore safely. Continue this for a week or more.

6. Introduce your resident cats to the new cat, one at a time.

After all of the cats appear to be reacting to each other with markedly less intensity, bring one cat at a time into the private room for a supervised introduction, or bring your new cat into another room with one of your resident cats. Expect some occasional vocal objections.

  • Provide plenty of treats and toys to distract them and change the mood.
  • Keep a spray bottle full of water at arm’s length to break up a fight. If a fight erupts, go back to the previous steps for another week or two.

7. Open the door to the private room.

Let your cats tell you when they are comfortable. After a few (or many) weeks of supervised interactions, your cats might be ready to mingle freely. Signs of acceptance include eating or playing in the same room; sleeping or resting nearby; lack of jealousy when another cat is being petted.

Leave the private room open and outfitted for your new cat for another month or more, before gradually moving the litter box and feeding station to their permanent places. The transition to a new feeding spot might occur before the litter box or the opposite might also happen! Your goal is “no accidents” and gradual movements of the litter box might be more acceptable to your new cat. Put the litter box outside the door to the private room and close the door before gradually moving the litter box elsewhere.

A final thought.

Remember, your new cat needs careful introductions to your dogs but also to other pets that might be considered prey, including birds, rabbits, hamsters, guinea pigs, rats, snakes, etc. Do your research before you bring your new cat home.

Watch Tip: Integrating a New Dog into a Household

Posted on March 11th, 2012 by Trish Roman-Aquilino

Watch Tip LogoAdding a new dog to the family, especially when there is already a resident dog or dogs, should be a thoughtful process, and should incorporate several crucial tenets:

  • Preparation
  • Patience
  • Pack Management

Many humans require time and guidance to acclimate to new situations, learn new rules, understand each other’s ways of communicating, and to form bonds…why wouldn’t a new dog require the same kind of courtesies? (When deciding to bring a new dog into the family, proper introductions to a resident dog are a must – please read these tips and make sure your new addition will be compatible with your resident dog).

Preparation

Prepare your home ahead of time before the new dog arrives as much as possible.  At a minimum, figure out where the new family member is going to sleep; have a collar, ID tag, bed, bowl, crate (if crate-training), and leash ready.  Establish a “safe zone” for the new dog to stay in while acclimating – set your new dog up for success and don’t leave them to their own devices in room filled with expensive rugs, fragile furniture, or items dear to you, for instance.  Also, plan on keeping the new dog separated from your resident dog for some time, especially when you are not home to supervise, to enable them to acclimate to each other slowly, even if both dogs are “dog-friendly.”

Patience

Whether you’re adopting a puppy or a mature dog, patience is key to integrating your new pet into your household.  They will need to learn or re-learn housetraining, off-limits areas like couches or beds, and the unique routine of your household.  Your new dog will be learning about you and your family, and you will be learning about your new dog.  Establish a routine for your new dog right away, and do not put off their training.  Training and routine will help them bond to you and your household, build confidence in dogs that have come from unstable and unsettled backgrounds, and teach them what to expect from their new digs.  It is key to communication between human and canine.  Dogs adopted from shelters and with unknown backgrounds may have separation anxiety initially, or have picked up undesirable habits along their way, and will need your patience and guidance to learn good manners, feel secure, and become good canine citizens.

Pack Management

Management is crucial to integrating a new dog into the household.  Don’t listen to friends or family that say things such as, “just put them out in the backyard, and let them work out the relationship.”  This kind of approach can lead to dogfights, and tense relationships, and no one wants to have to give up their new pet because they failed to establish a successful relationship between their animals.  Always supervise play, feed separately, and do not leave toys and treats on the floor for dogs to compete over.  Once your new dog is settled in, and you have a better idea of the dynamic between your  dogs, you might be able to ease up on some of these rules, but for the most part, in a multi-dog household, it is much better to keep a lid on these situations that can lead to competition and fights.  For the first few weeks, plan on keeping the dogs separate when you are not home to supervise.  They will need time to establish a bond, and leaving strange dogs together can be invitation to trouble.

For more information, please check out these resources:

Humane Society of the United States – Integrating New Dog Tips

The Whole Dog Journal – Multi-dog Household Tips

The Whole Dog Journal – Multi-dog Training Tips

Adoptapet – 10 Tips for Welcoming a New Dog

Sharing this information with family, friends, and neighbors can make all the difference in the success of their new pet and creating a happy home for everyone involved.

Watch Tip: Pet Manners in the Shelter

Posted on March 4th, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip LogoWhile looking for a new pet at an animal shelter, get information and guidance from the shelter workers and volunteers about dogs or cats you are interested in. They know the animals. Don’t overlook an animal who might be just perfect for you because it has one behavior that you don’t like. Take a second look. Remember: shelters are crowded,  noisy, smelly environments that cause unwanted behaviors that will disappear once outside.

Meet Sadie, the shelter cat with “Cattidude”

Sadie lives in our home now, but she had formerly lived in the no-kill shelter where I volunteer for well over a year. She was admitted as a stray cat and surprisingly, she was declawed. Normally a declawed cat is adopted quickly, but Sadie didn’t “show” well. She had “cattitude” with a capital C. She hated being picked up and would squall loudly. Her voice grated. If you tried to pet her she would scramble to escape. We thought she would be there forever. I recorded a video for her to show that she could actually be picked up:

Meet Sadie

So my crazy husband and I adopted her just to get her out of the shelter, half expecting her to be a sourpuss, cranky with our Tilly cat and our three dogs. Well, the joke was on us! When I opened the travel crate, she daintily stepped around the guest bedroom set up as her transition room and sniffed at the litter box, the water dish, her food. In about 20 seconds she turned back to me, looking me full in the face and she started to purr. With a determined stride, she walked up to me seated on the carpet and began to knead my thigh, purring loudly. I swear she was saying, “I love this place! Quiet! Windows! Carpet! THANK YOU!”

Sadie has been a saint with our other cat Tilly who was “Unhappy” about acquiring a sister. She sits quietly like a queen when our dogs come near. She loves attention and especially loves to sit next to my husband or me when we are working, reaching out one paw to touch us occasionally. We adore Sadie! WHO KNEW she was so sweet?

The shelter staff knew and they would tell interested families about Sadie’s wonderful qualities, saying she was “slow to warm up.” They said she “hated the shelter.” Exactly!

If you or someone you know is planning to visit a shelter or pound to adopt a dog or cat, think about ways to get the best information about the individual animals you might see.

  • Work with a shelter facility that provides good customer service and will accept return of the animal if an unresolvable problem arises.
  • Plan to spend hours and days, not minutes. Finding the dog or cat of your dreams is time-consuming. Remember, your pet will likely live for many years.
  • Ask for guidance from staff or volunteers. Offer the one or two most important characteristics you are seeking, such as sociability, energy level, training, health. Remember that pets inside of a kennel might have learned a habit that can later be retrained, such as leaping on gates.
  • Ignore color, size, sex, breed, hair length, and other physical characteristics unless you have a rational reason. If you can only lift 50 pounds or your landlord only allows dogs under 20 pounds or airlines only allow small dogs in the main cabin and you fly a lot–those are valid reasons. Avoiding black furry dogs because your carpet is beige? Come on–you shed too. Please adopt a plant instead. All dogs and cats are individuals. Personality (temperament) is what matters.
  • Bring your family and your family dogs with you if you are looking at dogs. If your dog and the shelter dog are ignoring each other, that is actually a good sign. Don’t bring your family cats to look at cats; plan an introduction and transition period and set aside a private room.
  • Plan for a “new pet” transition period that lasts for weeks, while your new cat or dog learns “house rules” and unlearns any shelter-acquired habits. Do not use physical punishment to train your pet; you will only create new aggressive or fearful behaviors! If you are experiencing difficulties, get advice or assistance from a behaviorist or trainer.

Rescues that are foster home-based are excellent places to look for dogs and cats, if they are reputable. It is very important to seek several references for rescues because there are hundreds of poorly-run or fraudulent rescue groups, including rescues that are just “fronts” for puppy mills. Because they don’t have a facility, you might find it difficult to identify bad rescues. Read my post about the signs of a reputable rescue.

 

Watch Tip Classic: Scratching Persistently

Posted on February 26th, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip LogoListen and watch for pets who scratch or lick themselves persistently; they might be suffering severely from food allergies, mange, fleas or other parasites. Look at the fur: do you see red, rough patches or skin ulcers? This animal is in perpetual torment. Please take action. Talk to the owner or call the authorities.

“Look at the fur” ==> “Look beneath the fur”

When you watch a dog or cat who persistently scratches, you might make the same common assumption as many others do: the poor thing suffers from fleas or even worse, has developed allergies to flea saliva. If you part the hair and find pin-head sized dark things that dart or jump, and accompanying flakes of dark red “dandruff” (blood), you are correct.  But flea treatments won’t help and can even worsen these other common skin problems:

  • Allergies or reactions to foods, medications, or things in the environment (eczema, hot spots)
  • Poor coat and skin health caused by bad quality dog food
  • Infected wound that stays moist because of wet living conditions (usually outdoors)
  • Parasites other than fleas such as sarcoptic and demodex mites, ticks, deer flies
  • Compulsive licking and scratching caused by separation anxiety or boredom (confinement)
  • Fungi or yeast infections (ringworm).

Food allergies or poor quality foods cause many skin problems

Veterinarians will tell you that poor food is a frequent cause of unhealthy skin and itching that results from it. One wrote, “In my thirty-five years of practice, I have seen hundreds of dogs and cats whose lives changed dramatically, and where the pet’s caretakers were shocked and surprised at the remarkable difference in their pets, by the simple act of providing the pet with a high quality, meat-based diet.”

Pay particular attention to the first three items on pet food ingredient lists. You should be suspicious if they include corn, wheat, or any meat by-product meal. Many dogs are allergic to corn; avoid foods that include even small amounts. Cats can’t digest grains or vegetables; they are true carnivores. Remember, food manufacturers are legally entitled to use generic words like “natural” and “complete, balanced nutrition” by maintaining MINIMUM standards.

Living outdoors can create or exacerbate skin problems

Some skin problems can be prevented by keeping animals indoors in dry conditions, away from insects and parasites. Watch “outside” animals in your neighborhood for persistent itching and speak to the owners. Some of them may already be treating itching with a flea collar, wondering why it does not help!

Do you see persistent itching of the ears in particular? Mites, bacteria and fungi are causes as listed above, but are joined by flies who will bite along ear margins, creating red crusty lesions. Both ears will be affected. Again, outside animals are more likely to be affected.

Read more about skin problems here: The Pet Center web site.

Be a Good Samaritan to animals in your neighborhood, remembering that most often ignorance is the cause of suffering. When you are helping an animal, you are also helping your neighbors.

Watch Tip Classic: Secondhand Smoke Harms Pets

Posted on February 20th, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip Logo
Secondhand smoke is a threat to pets—did you know? It is even more toxic for pets than for humans because not only do they breathe the fumes, they lick the cancer-causing residue from their fur while grooming! Cats and short-nosed dogs are most affected, but all pets in smoking households are more likely to develop lung/nasal/mouth cancers and lymphoma.

If you smoke, be aware of the increased risk of cancer for your pets

Have you ever noticed the smoke residue that coats the walls and windows inside the home of a smoker? In addition to coating lung tissues, that toxic airborne residue infiltrates porous materials, such as clothing and pet fur. Secondhand smoke causes cancer in cats and dogs just like it does in non-smokers who are forced to breathe the same air. The smoke can also cause breathing difficulties and eye/skin irritations. Plus, with their sensitive noses, just imagine how dogs and cats must dislike the strong acrid odors. Read the rest of this entry »

Watch Tip: Select Pets for Temperament

Posted on February 12th, 2012 by Anna Nirva

Watch Tip LogoAdvocate for choosing a canine companion based on rational criteria, not size or cuteness. Large dogs and little dogs generally take the same amount of daily care and training time. Learn the advantages of keeping large dogs in the family; they are often overlooked in shelters by would-be adopters, more of whom prefer small dogs.

Every dog and cat is an individual

If we could influence more adopters to select a pet based on temperament and lifestyle considerations, more large dogs and adult dogs might be chosen. Today there is more demand for small dogs and puppies. In some areas of the country, there are not enough small dogs in shelters and rescues to satisfy demand so would-be adopters purchase small-breed puppies instead of adopting. Also, purchasing puppies is often faster and easier than adopting.

At the shelter where I volunteer in Wisconsin, little and medium-size adult dogs are adopted at a significantly faster rate compared to large adult dogs. We see a sad phenomenon. Small dog adopters often appear to be more concerned about size, breed, color, and hair length before temperament. It’s almost a caricature; we observe this frequently. One  comment made by small dog adopters is that small dogs are easier to care for. Many dog lovers who have broad experience with many breeds find that assertion truly puzzling. Read the rest of this entry »

Watch Tip: Finding My Old Companion

Posted on February 5th, 2012 by Joy Ward

We have a guest blogger this week, Jeannette P. Ward, PhD. Jeannette is a retired physiological psychologist and animal behavior consultant. She lives with two older Weimaraners.

 

Well, it’s all good now.  My companion and I are all snuggled up together on the big couch.  It has to be a big couch because he is a really big boy.  This happy story is about how I found my companion.  You may find some of these points helpful.

A few months ago I retired from my job of many years.  For awhile I was busy with farewell parties and lunches out with friends and relatives.  But soon the retirement activities slowed and my little house got very quiet.  Oh, there were still outings from time to time, but in between times, most of the time when I’m home alone, it is very quiet, even sometimes lonely.  So it came to me that I needed a full-time companion, a 24-hour buddy. Read the rest of this entry »